If you’ve visited Atlanta before, you may have left thinking that the city consists only of the world’s busiest airport, big tourist attractions such as the Coca-Cola Museum and Georgia Aquarium and sprawling suburbs. But in fact, only two miles from your downtown hotel are trendy new restaurants, cafes and shops in cozy but hip neighborhoods, each with its own vibe.
Here is a walking tour of some of these ‘hoods, six miles (9 km) long in total, or about two hours’ walk. Pick your favorite part of the tour, or take a whole day to do all of it!
Uber it to the intersection of Virginia and North Highland avenues, the centerpoint of this classic neighborhood, where you will find dozens of popular restaurants, bars and boutiques. Walk the side streets (such as Adair and St. Charles) and admire the charming bungalows built from 1910 to 1930. Eat: Southern favorite “shrimp and grits” paired with a selection from the wine bar at Murphy’s – or try Atlanta’s trendiest burger at Yeah! Burger chased by a Southern bourbon.
Head south to Moreland Avenue at Euclid Avenue, where you will find:
Little Five Points
This is the epicenter of the city’s goth, punk and other alternative scenes. This is the place to shop for vintage clothing, find a fresh juice, or enjoy a beer and burger at the Vortex Bar & Grill.
Turn right (west) at Euclid Avenue to enter:
Atlanta’s original “suburb”, developed in the 1890s. Euclid Avenue is lined with Victorian mansions including the Beath Mansion at #866, and the Asa Candler “Coca-Cola mansion” at the corner of Elizabeth Street. Springvale Park just to the west was the site of a bloody Civil War battle – local residents claim to feel a ghostly presence here at night.
Continuing along Euclid Avenue, you reach Krog Street, and the landscape changes from Victorian to post-industrial. Turn left to explore Krog Street Tunnel, ground zero for the city’s street art scene. Turn right from Euclid and hit Krog Street Market, one of two large food halls opened in recent years. Turn left at Irwin and immediately right onto the BeltLine Trail, a 22-mile (35 km)-long trail around the central city built on former rail lines.
In 0.4 miles (600m) at Parish New Orleans-style restaurant, head right off the trail and explore:
Inman Park Village
Along Highland Avenue, new loft apartments and restaurants occupy former factories. Enjoy a glass of wine and tapas at Barcelona Wine Bar, Atlanta’s best pizza at Fritti or fine Italian cuisine at Sotto Sotto.
Head back to the BeltLine and rejoin the joggers and bikers heading north. Stop to visit the Carter Center, an excellent museum documenting world issues during Jimmy Carter’s presidency. Or continue onward and enter Atlanta’s most eclectic and hip neighborhood:
Old Fourth Ward
Continuing 0.6 miles (1 km) north on the trail, you’ll pass the the Fourth Ward Skatepark on the left, then trendy Southern restaurant Two Urban Licks on the right.
Head left at the Gateway Trail down the hill to visit the new Historic Fourth Ward Park and its beautiful sunken reservoir and fountains. Across from the north end of the park is Ponce City Market, a food and multiuse complex built in what was a Sears warehouse – the largest building in the Southern U.S. by volume. There, Dancing Goats’ coffee may be the best in the city – you can enjoy it swinging in a hammock.
Rejoin the BeltLIne Trail north and after 0.6 miles (1 km) you will reach:
This is Atlanta’s “Central Park” where you can enjoy the Botanical Garden (fee), Lake Clara Meer, the Wetlands, and a brisk walk through the North Woods. From here it’s a short walk back to Midtown or you can Uber it back to Downtown.
Exploring any of these charming neighborhoods – or the many others that Atlanta boasts – will convince you that Atlanta is far more than just downtown hotels, convention centers, and endless sprawl. It truly does have Southern charm and local style!
SWYPE – invented by the same man who invented T9 (predictive text on old Nokia phones), this allows you to “type” but swiping your finger across the letters. To type “ask”, you move your finger across the a, s, and k keys. No need to lift your finger up until the end. It is *so* much faster than typing on the iPhone.
Android is available on devices with a choice of screen size (I want a large screen like Samsung Note III – this will relieve any need I might have for an iPad)
Android allows you to save files from emails so that you can open them later. On iPhone you cannot save files except photos and PDFs. For other file types, you have to open the files from your email, which can mean downloading those files over and over again.
Android lets you attach those saved files, or photos, or PDFs, to emails. (Update: It turns out you need a helper app for file types other than photo and video) On iPhone you cannot write an email and then decide to attach a photo, you *must* first go the photo and forward it as an email. (Correction! Apparently you can switch to Photos, copy a photo, switch back to mail, and paste the photo)
Android has convenient shortcuts, for example from the top pulldown bar, to turn off WiFi with one swipe and a press, instead of three presses. You can also make your own shortcuts on the home screens, and these are not limited, as on iPhone, just to apps and browser bookmarks.
Android has Google Maps as part of the OS – while iPhone *forces* apps to use the infamous, inaccurate Apple Maps (Correction! Apparently apps *can* now use Google Maps; just the reality on the ground is that the most used apps like Yelp and Zillow do not do so)
Here in the U.S. we are taught repeatedly that we live in a “free country”. That phrase has been twisted and misused so much by backward folks in my country who hate progress, or freedom for folks who are not like them. But take away that noise and yes – what a free country this is and how lucky am I to have been born here.
Other English-speaking countries are almost all free as well – the UK, Ireland, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, even India somehow manages to stay free despite the need to organize 1+ billion people, mostly poor. When I was about 8, our history teacher told us “children, the United States is the only free country on Earth”. Having just visited British Columbia, I held up my hand: “but teacher, what about Canada”? “Oh yes, Brian, Canada is a free country too.” Whew.
And we’ve been free for a long time. Democracy in the US and British Empire while the French had Napoleon, the Germans had Hitler, let alone the Russians, Chinese, Arabs, Africans, and all the South American dictatorships…
So somehow in my subconscious, English was a free language.
Living in the Netherlands also gave me the feeling that English was more of a “free” language than others. Let me explain. Dutch is a language which very few people from other (developed) countries have a reason to learn. So I spoke Dutch, and I would make mistakes and sometimes get laughed at. Or sometimes people just wouldn’t know what to make of it. Or – before I was really fluent in Dutch – my efforts would be dismissed without discussion and the answer would come in English. This reaction had very little to do with malice — it simply was highly unusual for a foreigner to speak the language, except for immigrants from Turkey, Morocco, and so forth. Nevertheless, I felt frustrated. I remembered how in the United States, everyone just spoke English. (Spanish is a huge exception, but for the rest: People Just Communicate In English) Often people would speak with a heavy accent and quite incorrectly, and we *might* sometimes be curious about where they came from, but on an everyday basis, it wasn’t something we give a second thought to. First and foremost, English was just a means of communication. When I lived in the Netherlands trying to fit in as far as language, I was frustrated that I didn’t enjoy what I perceived as the freedom with the language that immigrants and visitors to the United States have. (Again NO criticism of the Dutch meant here – it’s just how the language situation was – and I felt *extremely* welcome there).
Plus, English stood on a pedestal there. It was the indisputable language of communication with the world, and sometimes even within the Netherlands (e.g. Emails between Dutch people at the HQ of the Dutch bank I worked for: English please! I might have to forward your message to Kazakhstan!) English represented openness to the world. Writing a Dutch email was sometimes chastized!
English was, and is increasingly, the language that the world communicated to each other in, regardless of their native language. If a young person from Germany talks to a young person from Holland on holiday in Greece, chances are it will be English. English belongs to everybody. And most of us don’t get upset at accents or bad grammar – it’s the free language of communication.
So there you go – English seems like a free language to me.
Now for Wikipedia.
Moving to Atlanta 3 years ago and knowing almost nothing about it except negative stereotypes about Southern backwardness and poverty, blistering summers and Atlanta traffic, I was surprised to fall in love with the inner, older neighborhoods of Atlanta such as the one where we live in our 1913 bungalow. Trees everywhere including old oaks; 100-year old architecture; neighborhoods each with a name and official border, an own story, an own “feel” and identifiable cores of restaurants and shops you can walk to. Real “places” — which my native Los Angeles lacked, with its sprawl and size. And then the friendliness and hospitality of the people.
I digress. I started to research the history of our house and neighborhood. Along the way, I read about many places in what was then the heart of Atlanta – Downtown. Downtown today is, sadly, a place with some old buildings, but dominated by 1970s architecture. It serves convention visitors with high-rise hotels and national chain steakhouses; houses government offices and Georgia State University, and is dotted with empty lots and parking garages. When I saw pictures of bustling crowds, in front of huge department stores and endless smaller stores, I couldn’t even imagine where that was… yet it was in that slightly unpleasant place, Five Points, that I had been. It felt like this bustling city of beautiful 100-year-old steel and brick buildings existed as a ghost — a Photoshop layer that hadn’t been saved — somehow still existing on this place which looked and felt completely different today.
So I researched more. More on all the major buildings (demolished and standing). More on the surreal everyday existence of a city racially segregated by law. Or on the African-American heroes before Civil Rights, who prospered despite segregation and hate. Or the 1906 Race Riot. Or the Great Fire. More on the streetcar network that once existed.
I knew how easy it was to “throw” my research into a new Wikipedia article so that others could benefit from it. I noticed that even minor articles had hundreds or thousands of viewers per month. I also noticed that if I looked up pretty much any topic, the first Google result was a Wikipedia entry. So I realized – this is how people will truly benefit. Much more than if I wrote a book about a topic. If I simply created a Wikipedia entry, that put that topic on the map. And people would learn about it.
So I become addicted to Wikipedia article creation.
One day, for fun, I wanted to add “Deltalina”. That is the nickname of a real Delta flight attendant who appeared in some funny Delta safety videos. She got quite a bit of press coverage and was a minor celebrity, certainly here in Delta’s hometown of Atlanta.
So I added her to Wikipedia. I added several reliable sources such as major newspapers, CNN, etc. And I added photos of her I took during Atlanta’s Pride festival when she appeared on a float. Mission accomplished. Deltalina was documented. Probably for all posterity.
But one day — just for fun — I decided to add articles in the other languages I know fluently or fairly well. So I added Deltalina in Dutch, Spanish, French, and got some translation help and added her in Russian. The reactions were unexpected but made me wonder if they reflect the societies which speak those languages.
The Spanish and French versions were immediately deleted. Without discussion. This was a shocker because on English Wikipedia, articles are virtually always tagged as “suggested for deletion” for a couple weeks, people can chime in, and a consensus is reached. Nope, not in Spanish or French. Administrator thinks it’s not encyclopedic or relevant. Immediate deletion on the whim of the Administrator. End of discussion.
My appeals to the French administrator were simply ignored.
French: Dictatorial and rude. Fits the stereotype.
My appeals to the Spanish administrator, heard, but denied.
Spanish: Dictatorial, yet chatty. Fits the stereotype!
The Russian version was the biggest surprise of all. A lively discussion and a conclusion that yes, this lady was a minor celebrity. So let’s keep her. Hard to fit *that* into any stereotype!
One question I often get is "Brian, how do you find this stuff"?
So – Chinese ladies in Texas line-dancing to the South African Dutch country-music version of the theme song — complete with yodeling — of a Japanese cartoon about a Swiss-German girl. How do I find it?
It all started with our vacation in Southern Africa.
Background information: Down there in Namibia the main spoken language is Afrikaans, which is the language that Dutch turned into after 300 years in Southern Africa. It is (in written form) 80-90% comprehensible to me and I enjoy reading it and hearing it on the radio there. The accent is really beautiful actually – sometimes even sexy! Unfortunately it's suppressed in favor of English these days — even though most Afrikaans-speakers are people of color, Afrikaans was promoted under apartheid.
I was looking for music to accompany a video I was going to make of our trip (but never did). One song I thought of was "Pata Pata" by Miriam Makeba, perhaps the most famous South African song of all.
Which, in itself took me some time to process. Chinese ladies. They are in America. Line dancing. OK cool!
Huh? Well it appears these Chinese ladies danced to a whole lot of music from around the world. And some lady in Holland was choreographing a lot of Afrikaans music, a lot of which has a country beat.
I guess when you put white people on a new continent and they raise cattle, they start singing country. Thus also in South Africa.
There was more Afrikaans music these Chinese-Texan ladies were line-dancing. One was "Sweet Heidi". And I recognized the melody. It was the theme song from Heidi, a Japanese anime series wildly popular around the world except for the U.S. I had seen the series in the Netherlands. And it also existed dubbed into Afrikaans:
So there you go… Chinese ladies in Texas line-dancing to the South African Dutch country-music version of the theme song — complete with yodeling — of a Japanese cartoon about a Swiss-German girl. Oh, and you can learn the line dance in Chinese or English. Watch and become strangely addicted.